Numerical Model of Breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation by Using 1D Boussinesq Equation

Boussinesq Equation main figure
Yuliarko Sukardi

B.E. Ocean Engineering
Institute Technology of Bandung

M. Eng. Coastal Engineering
University of Tokyo



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Numerical Model of Breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation by Using 1D Boussinesq Equation
This study is concerned with the development of a high-order numerical model to solve incompressible water wave motion based on improved nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq equations. A third-order Adams-Bashforth and a fourth-order Adams-Mouton predictor-corrector scheme was selected in an attempt to eliminate the truncation error terms that would be of the same form as the dispersive terms in the Boussinesq equations with second order schemes as in many other studies.
www.boussinesq-equation.blogspot.com

Simulation of Non-breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation on a Sloping Beach


As a first check of the moving boundary model, a monochromatic wave train is let to runup and rundown a plane beach. The model is compared with the analytic solution derived by Carrier and Greenspan (1958) for monochromatic long wave runup on a constant slope. Their derivation makes use of the non-linear shallow water equations, and thus for consistency the dispersive terms will be ignored in the numerical simulations for this comparison.


Boussinesq Equation figure 17


Simulation of non-breaking regular wave runup propagation on a sloping beach is shown below





Figure below shows a comparison between analytical (Carrier and Greenspan, 1958) and numerical solution of vertical shoreline movement. The analytic solution is indicated by a red line while the numerical solution is indicated by a blue line. It is concluded that non-breaking regular wave runup is accurately predicted by the proposed model, yielding a validation of the moving boundary technique.


Boussinesq Equation figure 18



Simulation of Non-breaking Regular Wave Propagation on a Constant Depth

Simulation of Non-breaking Regular Wave Propagation on a Sloping Beach up to Breaking Location

Simulation of Breaking Regular Wave Propagation on a Sloping Beach up to Very Shallow Water Depth

Simulation of Breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation on a Sloping Beach


BOUSSINESQ EQUATION's CONTENT


Abstract

Introduction

Boussinesq-type Equation

Wave Breaking Model

Wave Runup Model

Numerical Methodology

Wave Propagation Modeling

- Simulation of Non-breaking Regular Wave Propagation on a Constant Depth

- Simulation of Non-breaking Regular Wave Propagation on a Sloping Beach up to Breaking Location

- Simulation of Breaking Regular Wave Propagation on a Sloping Beach up to Very Shallow Water Depth

- Simulation of Non-breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation on a Sloping Beach

- Simulation of Breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation on a Sloping Beach


Conclusions and Recommendations

References



Joseph Valentin Boussinesq
He (born March 13, 1842 in Saint-André-de-Sangonis (Hérault département), died February 19, 1929 in Paris) was a French mathematician and physicist who made significant contributions to the theory of hydrodynamics, vibration, light, and heat.

Master Research
This study was supported by the Asian Development Bank-Japan Scholarship Program.
Numerical Model of Breaking Regular Wave Runup Propagation by Using 1D Boussinesq Equation



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